Aircon and aircon drainage
We installed two aircon systems in the boat. One 16.000 BTU unit is serving the main cabin (and to a lesser extend the fore cabin) and the second unit (10.000BTU) the aft cabin. The condensation water from the aircon is not draining directly into the bilge. If that would be the case the bilge would be constantly wet and any leakage otherwise would be obscured, which could lead in the long term to serious problems. To avoid that, the condensation water drains in a closed plastic box (picture) as usually used for electrical connections, with a transparent cover. Inside the box is an automatic bilge pump (RULE 500). The transparent cover enables to check for water level without opening the box. Even if there is water in the box when sailing, the water will not seep into the bilge, which is therefore, as it should be, absolutely dry. The only maintenance that has to be done is to add regularly some bleach 25 to 50 ml) into the drain pan of the aircon system. This will dissolve the slime in the drain pain and the drain hoses as well as in the collection box and bilge pump hoses. The system has been proven to work well over the past 5 years in a previous boat. On our 387 the outlet of the condensation water of both aircons are led inside the anchor locker. The strainer for the aircon cooling water is placed under the forepeak. It can be cleaned without any water spillage as the top is higher than the waterline. Both aircon systems (main and aft cabin) use the same seawater pump that is switched on/off via a relays box. The cooling water hose runs under the floor from forepeak  (main aircon) to SB cockpit locker (aft cabin aircon compressor).

In the bilge we have a water sensor installed that initiate an audible alarm if there is any water in the bilge. In addition to the aircon we have fans installed, two in the fore cabin, 3 in the main cabin and 2 in the aft cabin.

Solar panels
On top of the bimini there are 4 solar panels fixed, totaling a maximum output of about 215 watt. In the tropics solar cells can just be mounted horizontally as the sun is, except in the morning and afternoon, always more or less straight overhead. The wiring is lead to a regulator in the cockpit locker and from there to the distribution panel and the batteries via AWG 2 cables to minimize voltage drop. On cloudless days we have a maximum solar energy input of 15 Amp at noon. The solar panels thus positively contribute significantly to the energy needs on board. When anchoring we use an additional  (30 Watt) solar panel on deck, connected to the electrical system via a cigarette lighter.

Wind generator
The installed wind generator AirX 100 also contributes to a favorable electrical energy balance on board. Not that the wind is so strong, but while sailing in the usual 15 knots of (apparent) wind, our ‘Windy’ puts in some 3 to 4 amps. Not much, but it helps. While anchoring at night it often spins in the land breeze and it acts as an alarm when it really gets noisy before a thunderstorm hits. The electrical connections go into the cockpit locker and from there to the distribution panel in the cabin and the batteries (see solar panels).

High output alternator and smart regulator
We installed a Balmar 80 Amp alternator in connection with a smart regulator (MC612). This really shortens the time that we have to run engine while at anchor to charge the batteries. The regulator is installed outside the engine compartment (we tried inside but it was too hot).

Lightning protection/grounding
On top of the mast is a lightning arrestor (picture 1, taken when the mast was not yet stepped), which is said to dissipate ions more gradually and easily, thus avoiding a sudden burst of dissipation charge. This is NOT seen as an adequate protection, but might help in borderline situations.

The mast is grounded to the keel using a 4 AWG, 49 strand copper wire (black insulation). The wire is attached to the mast step via a cable lug screwed on a copper plate (3 mm thick, 25 mm wide) that is bended around the mast step and hold in place with a hose clamp (picture 2).

The chain plates are connected to a keel bolt via cable lugs on both keel bolt and chain plate (picture 3) with 4 AWG wire. The cap shroud and for- and aft lowers on each side are interconnected via a structural longitudinal aluminum beam laminated into the structure of the hull.

The two bridle aft stays are connected with flexible braided copper wire (6 AWG) and are also connected to the rudder post (6 AWG) and to the pedestal inside the cockpit lockers. The push pit is connected to the aft stays as well on both sides

The fore stay is not grounded as the grounding wire cannot be laid straight down to the keel.

The connections to the keel bolt are painted with epoxy paint to avoid corrosion in case there is water in the bilge. All other connections are in dry spots.

Opening of stern/swim ladder from the water
When sailing single-handed, many precautions have to be taken for ‘in case of…’ Many of them are obvious and well described in books and magazines and do not only apply to single-handed sailors. On my old boat the swim platform was relatively low at the water line and it was possible to get on board even if the ladder was not down. On the 387 this is impossible. Not only is the swim platform too high, but,  as the ladder is part of the push pit, it is also locked. So what if single-handed, while at anchor, you fall over board? Unless you are a monkey you can forget about the anchor chain and you will find yourself in a situation as in the movie ‘adrift’.

To avoid that happening I tied on each side of the locker handle a 6 mm line (picture 1) and led the line around the nearest vertical post of the push pit (figure 2) down via a pad eye on the stern to the waterline, where the line  ends in a loop. On the ladder I also tied a line ending in a loop just over the waterline.

Now it is possible to open the push pit and pull the ladder down from the water. The pull needed to ‘unlock the ladder needs to be a sudden pull. Then not much force is needed. Mind when, after unlocking, you finally pull the ladder down that your head is also there….

It would be good if the manufacturer adapted the shape of the locking handle a little so that a bigger momentum with less force could be achieved.

Deck wash pump
The deck wash pump is installed under the drawer in the forepeak. The cooling water inlet of the aircon is T-ed off after the strainer with a valve between the T and the pump. The pump is switches on/off at the distribution panel with a LED indicating whether the pump is powered, this to avoid constant pressure on the hoses and thus minimizing the risk of flooding in case of a broken or disconnected hose. The outlet (2 meter hose) of the deck wash pump is in the anchor locker as this is the place where it is most needed. An extension hose is on board in case the water is needed elsewhere. The picture shows the outlet in the anchor locker. On the right the outlet of the aircon draining water is visible.

Wheel cover
To make the wheel less slippery and more comfortable to hold we covered it with 3 mm polyester line winded around it. In total some 100 meter line were used. To indicate the neutral position of the rudder, a Turkish knot was tied around the spoke that points upwards when the rudder is neutral

Storage in galley
As cooking is for both Mabel and me a pleasure we do not want to be deprived of a good meal while on board. Apart from the needed utensils herbs and seasonings are an absolutely ‘must’. The space on each side of the oven on the galley table under the lockers was ideal for that. A U shaped aluminum protrusion was glued (Sikaflex) on the galley top and a small teak wood board was fitted in. The board can be easily taken out, thus enabling easy cleaning of the ‘shelve’. We did the same below the oven, where we can now safely stow cutting boards. Also the foot pump in the small cabinet below the oven was replaced with a small electrical Whale ‘in line’ pump. The small pump is installed under a newly made ‘floor’, which as an access opening to the through hull valve. Pots and pans now find a place there easily. On the inside of the door below the sink we have installed a box for storing wooden spoons, mixers etc and we also made a knife block to safely store the kitchen knives. Not only we love to eat, food is more enjoyable with a glass of wine. The glasses are right at hand overhead the galley and some bottles have found a place against the bulkhead. An additional holder for cognac and whiskey glasses is located close to the bottles.

Separate engine battery
Nothing is more important that be able to start the engine at any time. As there are quite some energy consumers on board (fridge, fans at night) we do not want to be confronted with a dead battery and not able to be starting the engine. We installed a 100 Ah battery (in addition to the 2 4D (400 Ah) house batteries. The engine battery is separated from the house battery via a voltage sensitive relays (VSR, picture 1, small black box right of the switches) that electrically separates the batteries as soon as the starter battery voltage decreases to 12.8 volts. To additional battery is installed in the floor space between galley and heads. To hold the battery in place a 6 mm 316 thread goes across the batteries and is secured with two nuts against the side of the box (picture 2).

Mast step
The 387 is not a small boat and for example putting the main sail cover over the sail is, at least for us, not possible without some extra ‘height’. For that we installed a mast step some 50 cm over the deck, which enables us to get the cover over the sail.

Flexible Coupling

We installed a flexible shaft coupling (R&D). Not only is the engine noise less (less vibration), but there will also be less wear and tear in case the engine gets unobserved out of alignment. In addition, in case the propeller hits a heavy objects, the changes of damaging the gearbox are smaller as the coupling will give way. Installation is easy and can be done within an hour time or so.

Cunningham hole

The main sail came (fortunately) with a Cunningham hole but there were no provisions to tighten the luff of the sail when the wind freshens up using the Cunningham. We just installed a double block with stopper at the foot of the mast (block with black line, picture). The line is not led back to the cockpit as the (wind and sea) conditions when you need the Cunningham are moderate.

Extra storage in the heads
The space behind the toilet bowl in the heads was wasted space and we made a small shelve using fiber glass that enables us store things like toilet paper, shower gels, shampoo and as on the picture, our snorkeling gear.

Remounting of vent loop for shower drain and heads inlet
We just had the boat when there was a comment on Sailnet about seawater coming into the shower when on a port tack. Normally we close sea cocks (except the engine raw water intake) when sailing in rougher conditions, but curious about the comment I checked the vent loop. It was, at least on my 387, just 20 cm over the waterline, so no wonder that water would flow back into the shower drain pain, even if the boat heels only little. Instead of following suggestions on Sailnet to place a check valve in the line, I extended the two hoses to the vent loop, which sits now some 40 cm higher than original. Under normal conditions there will no back flow anymore. Also the vent loop for the seawater inlet of the heads was placed some 15 cm higher. We decided to let the vent loop for the drainage of the ice box (under the sink), which is also too low, as it is as we have the corresponding sea cock always closed except when draining the ice box.

VHF, Navtex and EPIRB

VHF and a Navtex receiver are nothing special to have on board. The VHF antenna is not mounted on top of the mast (as we are sailing in one of the most active thunderstorm areas in the world. Instead, they are mounted on the bimini and thus, in theory, within the cone of protection. Note the radar reflector mounted on the bimini top Inside the VHF and Navtex is installed on the small shelve over the distribution panel. The elevation on the bimini is the mounting place for the solar cells.

For safety reason we have an EPIRB on board (mounted in the companion way) as well as a life raft that is equipped for survival at sea specially for tropical conditions. We both followed a (professional) sea survival training course.

Water maker
In the cockpit locker on port, next to the refrigerator compressor, we have installed a water maker. Although the capacity is relatively small (5 l/h), it has proven to be useful over the past years. We usually run it when the engine is on, to save on battery life.

Spinnaker
The sailing conditions around the equator are generally calm. We have two distinct seasons (monsoons) during which the winds in the afternoon are normally within the 10 to 15 knots range. In between the monsoons, in the transition periods, the winds are merely thermal (sea breeze and land breeze). Our a-symmetrical spinnaker enables us to still make way despite the sometimes very low wind speeds.

Storage in cockpit lockers
The cockpit lockers, although quite roomy, are not very storage friendly because of their shape and lack of shelves. I made shelves athwart ships that can stow big plastic boxes which makes storage much easier. The aircon compressor on sb was encased with a box (that can be dismantled within 5 minutes). That not only protects the compressor, but also created some place on top (for the bbq in blue back) and left just enough space for the folded inflatable to be stowed (blue/gray bag). The main switches for the shore power were replaced more inwards. On port side the spinnaker is stowed when not in use.

Instrumentation

Mei Poh is equipped with Raymarine Tridata (log, speed and depth), wind  and autopilot. In addition a Furuno GPS is installed at the wheel. All instruments are connected and able to ‘talk’. The information (NMEA and Seatalk) is lead to the navigation table where a Raymarine graphic repeater can display all data as well.

On board ‘Mei Poh’ we use paper charts as it makes navigating more fun. We have, however, electronic navigation software and can connect to laptop immediately via USB port. As a spare GPS we have a USB GPS antenna and a handheld GPS that sits normally in the grab bag.

Cockpit opening towards stern ladder

The removable seat behind the steering wheel to have easy access to the swim platform while anchoring is heavy and it does not take too much imagination that it could be lost over board and sink when removing it, as it is heavy and bulky. To make sure it will not get lost, it was partly filled with PU foam. It floats now. It also was better secured to stay in place while under way, by two small knobs (blue) that just fit in the groove of the seat.

Hatch cover
The wash boards are not very handy when sailing in rainy weather. they have to be 'in' to prevent rain floating the cabin, but taking them out for any activity in galley or at navigation table is a hassle. We mounted a piece of canvass on the sliding cover of the hatch. On the bottom this canvass has some sand sewed in. It just covers the opening, can easily be lifted for entrance into the cabin and keeps the rain, also tropical down pours, completely out.

Replacement engine cool water strainer and primary fuel filter.

The engine water strainer was originally located under the berth where it was extremely difficult to reach, which can be dangerous in an emergency. The same was true for the primary filter. The water strainer was replaced (and exchanged against an all plastic Vetus model (no rust) into the engine compartment. It sits now just above the waterline and can be easily cleaned without closing the sea cock. The fuel filter was brought outside the berth and a cover was made to protect it from being accidentally hit. The cover also makes a nice stool in front of the mirror, something Mabel likes for obvious reasons. The stool is not too deep, thus still enabling a unobstructed passage between mirror and berth. Under the stool is place for spare fuel filters and a prime pump in case the filter has to be primed.

Sliding shelve in galley cabinet

The upper part of the most forward galley cabinet was never used, so I made a sliding shelve that keeps the covers of the pots and pans neatly. The sliding 'mechanism' is simple. Just two U-shaped aluminum protrusions glued (Sikaflex) and supported with a also glued teak bar below. The plywood panel (10 mm just fits) nicely in the U shaped aluminum protrusion.

Extra storage under the berth in the aft cabin.

We have the 'atwartship' aft cabin layout. There is plenty of wasted space under the berth on port and starboard side of the fuel and water tank respectively. I first cut out a 6 cm diameter hole underneath the seat, later to be covered with a louvered vent grille, to check whether the place could be used for storage. As this was positive, I cut on both sides an opening of about 35  by 20 cm, about 5 cm adjacent of the tanks. After cleaning up all the (construction) dust, we now have added two rather big storage places. As they are not easy accessible, we use them for those things you would like to have on board in case of..... For example a spare propeller, the original (now spare) alternator, a spare starter motor, and some tools.
I also mounted a shelf over the whole length of the aft cabin on port side and star board side. The debate was whether to make a shelve or a locker, but we felt that a locker would negatively affect the spacious look of the cabin. The shelves have a vertical (teak) rim of 8 cm and is 23 cm wide. It is made of marine plywood, 18 mm thick, on both sides covered with Formica. A vertical support in the middle prevents bending (on port), but it is not attached to the hull on the backside. We will use it for clothing and other light stuff and most probably we will make attachments for netting in front in case of heavy weather. On starboard I also made a book shelf in the same way, except that the material used was less thick as the length of the shelf was only one third.

Folding propeller.

We have installed a folding propeller now (3 blade FlexOFold). Difficult to judge how much speed we gain in light airs, but the behavior of the boat under engine is surely not affected negatively.

Extra bilge storage.

The last part of the bilge box could originally only be reached after screwing a large floor board off, which made the available space in fact too difficult for storage. After cutting part of the floorboard, the space is now easy accessible and will be used as storage for (heavy) tools.

Spice rack and extra cabinet in forward cabin.

The galley got a new spice rack and the cabinet door where we now have the microwave was used in the fore cabin where I made a extra cabinet on top of the existing one. In between I left about 2 inches space where we store the paper charts.

Change of ventilated loop of engine sea water cooling

The ventilated loop in the raw water cooling of the engine (valve type) has the tendency to leak (sea water dripping on the engine and starter motor) and can also get blocked. To avoid those problems the valve was replaced with a hose  (ID 7 mm) that is lead via the bulkhead behind the mirror in the aft cabin and from there between the deck and the inner lining towards the stern where it ends in a small through hull far above the waterline. This is regarded as a better solution for the venting than the normally used ball valves or rubber flaps (Nigel Calder). It took some efforts to get the hose between the deck and the lining although the access. A small amount of water will run through the vent hose only when the engine is running at nearly full throttle. The pictures show how the hose runs from the engine compartment and also important, in the aft cabin you can only see the hose as a small loop next to the door post. The remaining part could be hidden behind a aluminum protrusion of the same color as the door post.

Weaver Snap davits.

We mounted a set of Weaver snap davits on the transom to easy stow away the dinghy while sailing from one anchorage to the other. We do not intend to have the dinghy permanently stowed away on the transom as I believe that in heavy weather waved that would hit the dinghy would also possibly damage it or damage the mounting the system on either dinghy or transom.

Salt water tap in the galley sink.

To save water during longer trips we have mounted a salt water tap in the galley sink. We used the existing through hull for the drainage of the ice box (was disconnected and goes to the bilge now). The foot pump is the one that was meant to empty the ice box.