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Although the electricity cables (shore
power) for the SB sockets were connected to the main panel,
somehow there was no power at the sockets. As it was hardly
possible to find where the disconnection was, I finally
installed new cables after disconnecting the existing ones
from the distribution panel
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The electricity cables for the
aircon unit in the fore peak had the same problem and I did
run new cables from distribution panel to aircon location
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The reverse polarity light on the 220V aircon panel was wrongly
connected, indicating reverse polarity while all was right
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The cables
(12 V) for steaming light and deck flood light were
somewhere reversed. I changed the connection at the instrument
panel
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Batteries were
NOT tied down by any means. I installed 316 bars across the
batteries to hold them down in reverse conditions
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No graphic
repeater installed despite ordering and paying for it.
Although the unit was reimbursed, the additional work to
install one was annoying
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I had the boat
prepared for the aircon installation in the factory and paid
a quite hefty sum for that.
The aircon system I ordered (on advice of Ray Martinez, from Dometic USA who discussed it with Catalina) required one
seawater pump hose from fore to aft, which was not installed.
The pre-installation as done by Catalina assumed two seawater
inlets and two pumps instead of one pump and a pump relays). As I
bought the units already (based on Ray Martinez’ advice), I had
to run a hose from fore to aft, not an easy job and quite time
consuming if you do not
know all in and outs of the boat yet and you have to lift all
floor boards
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Aircon unit
did not fit into aft cabin cabinet. A hole for the motor of
the blower had to be sawed in the hull liner
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The aircon in
the fore cabin did not fit. The bottom of the berth had to
be cut wider
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The keel did
not fit well. The installation took about a day because the
boat had to be lifted twice to slightly widen some holes
where the keel bolts had to go in the keel box
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Inside the
keel box some adaptation had to be done to be able to
tighten all nuts
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The connection between hull and keel needed quite some patching
up with putty as it was not smooth.
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The boltrope of the headsail ripped when the sail was hoisted.
Reason was a too narrow stitching along the rope, causing the
sail to be perforated. The sail had
to get a new boltrope over the whole length of the luff and
sailing was delayed for a few weeks
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The main sail had no Dutchman flaking system (despite being this
item advertised as 'standard'. No hardware and no preparations in the sail.
After complaining to the highest level (Frank Butler him self)
we got a system and a cheque to have the sail altered
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The (second) reefing line was some 5 inches too short, so the
main sail could not he hoisted fully with the line attached to
the reefing eyes. An additional shackle had to be attached to
overcome this
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The main sheet was not packed and had to be bought (30 meter
(100 ft), 12 mm) separately
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The V-berth extension was not on the boat (according to the
packing list it never was). It came 3 months later by post
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Damage on the lid to secure stove (minor repair, but obviously a
machine screw does not hold in thin fiber glass)
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There was no Sikaflex sealant between steel deck plate and mast
step and water leaked between these two metal plates after every
deck wash or rain shower, ending up
in the bilge. It took some ingenuity to fix this leak without
removing the mast (as it was already stepped)
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We had on two
occasions (rain) water in the aft cabin. It appeared that
the engine instrument panel was not sealed on the pedestal.
The water hose of the drain pain was blocked, causing the
water to find its way into the aft cabin. The hose is now
lead to the drain pan of the
aircon system
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A slight leak
occurred at the inspection cover for the fore stay mounts in
the anchor locker. We sealed the cover with some silicon
(was not sealed)
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Our first sea trial ended up with being towed back in the
marina. The engine did not want to start after it suddenly
stopped (obviously no fuel despite full tank) and once back in
the marina I discovered that the primary fuel filter had been
installed reversed, the ‘in’ at the engine side
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A sea water leak near the propeller shaft
caused quite some water intake. It took some time to find
the origin as the hose runs under the aft berth to the
cockpit locker. It appeared to be a pin hole in the exhaust
hose between the engine and the muffler. The hose was replaced
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The hot water
hoses from the engine to the boiler leaked on both the
engine and the boiler side. On the engine the sealant at one
fitting had to be renewed
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Some hose connections for the
(cold) water system were slightly leaking when we filled the
water tanks and after checking all connection we found
several other loose hose clamps
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The drain hose
of the dry (ice) box was not connected to anything and was just
loose in the bilge. Good thing I changed the existing drain
pump to an electric in-line pump to safe space (see
upgrading) . otherwise all the melt water (if we would
ever use the box for that) would end up in the bilge. A
small T was all what was needed to have both ice box drain
and fridge drain connected to the pump
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The drain in
the floor of heads also ends 'nowhere' instead of leading it
directly to the bilge
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The 'seal'
between hose and drain pan of the shower leaked, resulting
in some water ending up in the bilge instead of been pumped
out. Sikaflex solved the problem.
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the water
heater has an overflow and the water just drips out when the
heater gets hotter. The amount is not much but the 0.5 liter
after a few hours engine run can be solved by attaching a
water hose to the overflow leading to a bottle. After some
weeks I made a permanent connection to the aircon drain.
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Some of the
compartments created by the floor grid) do not drain into
the bilge. What happens is that after some leaks it might
take a few sails under heel before you really have a dry
bilge again as water stays behind the grid. Unfortunately
nothing can be done about it without cutting holes. Quite
irritating
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The tachometer got erratic after two weeks and had to be
replaced. It took a few weeks emailing to convince the company
who delivered the tacho, that it was indeed not working
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The Voltmeter at the pedestal shows 0.5 volt to little, which is
quite irritating
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The fuel
indicator shows only 3/4 full tank even if the tank is completely
filled up
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Vent lopes for shower pump and toilet are to close to the
waterline (see upgrading)
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The connection
of the fore stay with the hull (stem head) was not
adequately sealed. On our first longer trip we had quite
some rough weather with lost of water coming over the bow.
Seawater ended up in the bilge (each day some 1.5 - 2
liters) and it took some time to discover where the water
came from (just by chance after the trip when we washed down
the boat and all of a sudden the water in the bilge was
fresh...). The solution was simple and cheap: some silicon
did wonders